Thursday, September 27, 2007

There Was A Time When...


I used to work as a Public Health Nutritionist. Today I consider myself a baker and pastry chef. The two careers start on a similar track in many universities, but wow, what a fork in the road.

The end of my public health career started when I married a fellow nutritionist whose family owns banquet and catering facilities in Chicago (http://www.gardenbanquets.com/). The conversion to baker sped up when my partner, Walter, suggested I use my food science background to figure out how to make kolacky. Kolackys are small, fruit filled pastries of Eastern European origins. Kolacky is also the signature dessert sold by Saranecki Bros Catering, Inc., the aforementioned family business. Since 1944, Saranecki Bros. had purchased thousands of dozens of these cookies from a reclusive wholesale baker who ran his business on the northwest side of Chicago. His name was Phil and Phil was ill. He refused to share or sell his recipe, hence the request from Walter.

I was home raising babies at the time (around 1987 I think) and thought, sounds like fun! I put out the word to all my Polish relatives for recipes. I tested dozens of permutations of the traditional kolacky, such as cream cheese based pastry or a yeasted pastry, etc. None was even close to the sweet, crisp cookie that Phil had perfected and our customers loved. I let the project slide while I indulged in the joy of baby #3.

In 1991, my mother returned from a trip to Europe with a gift; a Lenotre cookbook (The Best of Gaston Lenotre's Desserts) As I happily baked my way through the book, one recipe tasted familiar; the sweet short pastry enriched with almonds tasted like...Phil's Kolacky! The aha moment; who would have guessed that Phil's kolacky was not a traditional Polish cookie, but in fact, a French Tart!

Of course, there was more tweaking of the Lenotre recipe, but I believe the kolackys I now make for Saranecki Bros are as good, or perhaps better than Phil's (like Phil, I add mini chocolate chips, but I use Callebaut chocolate.)

17 years later, my recipe is considered secret, but you can have very similar results by using a recipe I adapted from Sherry Yard's great cookbook; "The Secrets of Baking". If the recipe seems too daunting and you live in the Chicago area, you can call me and I will make these delicious cookies for you...check out http://www.babushkabakery.com/ for photos of cookies and fancy cakes I make or if you need catering as well as cookies, view http://www.gardenbanquets.com/


ALMOND PASTRY DOUGH (to make 3 dozen kolacky)


6 ounces cold unsalted butter

1 cup sugar

1 1/4 cups cake flour

1 cup all purpose flour

1/2 cup almond flour

2 tb mini chocolate chips

1 large egg

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 can of Solo fruit filling

1. Cut the butter into 1 inch pieces and place in the freezer. chill for 15 minutes.

2 Sift together the sugar, cake flour, all purpose flour, and almond flour into the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle. Add the butter. Mix on low speed for 2 minutes, or until the butter is reduced to the size of peas. Add the chocolate chips and mix until incorporated.

3 Combine the egg and salt in a small bowl and mix until salt dissolves. Turn the mixer on low speed and add the egg mix. Mix just until the dough comes together; about 15 seconds.

4. Remove the dough from the bowl, and wrap in plastic wrap.
Refrigerate at least 2 hours.

5. Cut the dough in half. The photo shows a double batch which is cut into quarters. Flour your work surface, and ideally, roll out on a large silpat. I cover the dough with a sheet of plastic film when rolling to reduce the amount of extra flour needed. If too cold, allow dough to warm up for 10 minutes. Roll to a thickness of 1/4 inch.

6. Cut the dough into 2 1/4" squares. Top each square with a
teaspoon of fruit filling, such as Solo Brand. I prefer raspberry,
almond, and apricot flavors.

7. Fold one corner toward the center. Moisten your finger, then dab water on the opposite corner. Fold it toward the center. Place the kolacky on a parchment lined cookie sheet.

8. When all are folded, place the cookie sheet in the fridge for
at least 15 minutes.

9. Preheat the oven to 375. Bake for 15 minutes or until golden brown and crispy.

10. Allow to cool, then sprinkle with powdered sugar. Eat and Enjoy!

The crispness will soften after the first day so I suggest you eat your kolacky right away.

3 comments:

  1. Well I have heard the wonderful reputation of Saranecki Brothers Catering and have ordered from them on many occasions from the great reviews. When I finally tried some Babushka Bakery pasteries, I fell in love. Claudia really goes the extra mile to make sure my order was perfect right down to the dark purple color on my cake that from what I heard, took some time to get it just how I wanted. I will never try your recipe claudia for I can tell a pastry like yours will never come out of this oven. Thanks for all your help! You will be hearing from me again, my daughter has a birthday coming up!

    Karen

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  2. Karen,
    Thank you so much for initiating my
    blog with such kind words...I hope to be of service to your family soon...Claudia

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  3. Well, yum yum yum!

    I spent some formative years in Chicago...I was in grad school and I lived in Logan Square. It was still mostly Polish/Puerto Rican there; my boyfriend and I would save our money and go to...I think it was called The Red Apple on Milwaukee; fun memories (and thankfully a long-ish walk home as we would just stuff ourselves!).

    This pastry recipe looks wonderful. I know now what to do with some of that jam I've got in the basement!

    Thanks for stopping by...your compost comment made my morning.

    all the best...

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