The China Moon/Babushka Bakery connection.

  These look like the traditional Turtles that Americans love. One taste of a Babushka Turtle, however, and you'll be spoiled. The genesis for Babushka Bakery's delicious Turtle candies began on a trip to China 30 years ago.

      At that time, China was just opening her doors to tourism and there were no restaurants, hotels, or services geared to Western taste. 

Chinese Urban Kitchen 1982

In the month my husband and I traveled there, we had the privilege (and difficulty) of dining as the locals did.

One stop on the tour was to a remote mountain city near Xian, where old women still walked carefully on bound feet.

Last of the Bound Feet Women, Xian, China, 1982

Last of the Bound Feet Women, Xian, 1982

Dinner that night was memorable for it's culinary low points (nearly inedible stringy Stewed Curried Goat, oily boiled greens, greasy soup, and side dish of pasty noodles). And yet, that dinner also produced one of the culinary high points; sweet, caramelized Walnuts. The dining staff was amazed at how our group of Americans, who complained about every course,  devoured the walnuts; crisp, sweet, and a pure flavor. They were simple and yet the natural flavors were complex.

It was the texture that amazed me. 

In the US, we accept that nuts bought from the store are; well, soft and dull flavored. Our recipes call for toasting nuts in the oven for a few minutes to bring out the flavor, but the results are usually unsatisfactory at best, and at the worst, we often burn the nuts; forgotten in the oven. I hoped to one day find the secret of the Chinese Walnuts.

In 1993, I discovered a cookbook, "China Moon" written by Barbara Tropp, an American who attended university in Taiwan. Upon returning to the US, she became a chef and authority on Chinese food.  Her 2 books and countless lectures brought the techniques and secrets of Chinese cooking to Americans. "China Moon" also revealed the mystery of the "crispy nut". Chef Tropp writes," the pecans are put into a bowl and boiling water is poured over them. Allow them to soak for 30 minutes, and then drain. The soaking purges the bitter oils in the nuts." 

The nuts are then put on a baking sheet and toasted in a slow oven. Chef Tropp preferred the nuts with a bit of moisture left inside, so the nut was chewy. I like to slow "roast" them for 12 - 24 hours until sweet and crisp.

All the nuts purchased for Babushka Bakery are put through this process of soaking, purging, and slow roasting. It is a time and energy consuming process. But the subtle difference this process makes is one reason why Babushka's Turtles, Butterscotch Pecans, and assorted cookies all taste so darn good.

Sadly, Chef Tropp passed away in 2001 at the age of 53. Her influence is far ranging, not forgotten, and her Chinese cooking techniques have improved the quality of the baked goods of this American chef of European descent.


For more information on purchasing Babushka Bakery Turtles, Butterscotch Pecans, and assorted Cookies,  please visit my web site.

Thank you Chef Tropp for your work and books! 
Wishing a Happy Holiday to all!     Claudia.

Chef Barbara Tropp